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Synthetic Gems Trick or Treat @ Jewel Info 4 U

The word 'gem' etymologically means precious stone, a stone that is of very high value. However, it is interesting to note that the Latin 'gemma' originates from the root 'gen-' meaning to produce. While authentic gems are produced by Mother Nature, Man has also dared to produce gems of diverse variety.

Stones imitating gems have been produced for hundreds of years using glass, plastic, compounds, etc. However, the first synthetic stone was created in the late 1800s by A.V.Verneuil who used the flame fusion process. The first synthetic gemstone (small ruby crystals) for commercial purposes was created in 1877 by French chemist Fremy. In 1885 larger synthetic rubies were created. Gem quality synthetic rubies were manufactured in 1902. Synthetic emeralds have been created since the 1940s; diamond synthesis resulted in Sweden and the US in 1953-54. Synthetic gems were perfected in the 1970s.

The terms natural, genuine, imitation, synthetic, Simulants, treated, real and fake tend to be confusing for the prospective buyer of gemstones in today's market which offer a plethora of choices.

Natural Stones

Genuine Stones

Imitation Stones

Synthetic Stones

Simulants Stones

Treated Stones

Real Stones
'Real' is a term often vaguely used to refer to 'natural' or 'genuine' stones. It means a natural stone, maybe treated, but not simulated or an imitation.

Fake Stones
Fake stones are imitation stones which do not have a natural (or synthetic) stone's physical, chemical and optical properties. They resemble the real stone but the similarities are restricted to the look only. Often they are made of glass, flint glass, slocum stone, composites or plastic. To an experienced eye, they are easily discernible. However, with present day advancement in artificial material, imitation stones are getting harder to detect.

With the clarification of all these related terms, the value of the synthetic gem would now be more comprehensible. Synthetic stones and Simulants stones are terms coined by the USBM for gems produced in the laboratory. Almost all gemstones ranging from diamond, emerald, ruby, sapphire to garnet, alexandrite, turquoise and quartz have their synthetic copies produced in scientific labs.

In the last decade the acceptance and use of synthetic and Simulants stones have led to production increase all over the world. This is because while earlier copies were quite simple to detect, modern synthetics can be identified only by expert gemologists. Also, in olden days, it was only the privilege of the royalty, rich and religious superiors to own gems. However, the desire of the common man to own such stunning possessions led to the man-made versions of natural gemstones. These created gems have now stormed the world by their beauty and variety; as long as they stand on their own merit and are not passed off as natural stones with overblown prices, they offer an affordable alternative to genuine gemstones. And this is the primary reason behind their soaring popularity.

It is not always the case that natural stones are the most exorbitant or valuable; a great deal depends on availability, quality and desirability. Superior quality rubies are rare, thereby accounting for their rocketing prices. Garnets are more easily available and therefore are priced much lower than a ruby of similar quality. Their prices are often competitive with high quality synthetics which are not necessarily inexpensive. Also, natural gems that are mining rejects are of little or no value. Treated stones have a lesser price tag than 'perfect' ones and are hence more affordable. Stones like garnet, peridot, hematite, moonstone and alexandrite are usually not treated.

Composite stones like doublets and triplets use a larger slab of low-cost stone capped on top and bottom by a fine layer of the genuine gem or a colored bond sandwiched between colorless stone. The connection line is invisible to the naked eye. Genuine doublets have the real gem on either side while semi genuine doublet or triplet have the gem only as a 'crown' on one side. False doublets do not have the natural stone at all. For example, garnet and glass may be cemented to appear like ruby. 'Piggy back' diamonds comprise of a crown diamond and colorless quartz or synthetic sapphire, spinel or glass. Composite stones are also conceived to enhance the hardness or durability of a gem. Opal and ammolite are usually in doublets or triplets to increase durability. Foil backs are made by putting a reflecting surface to the back of the stone to intensify its brilliance and dispersion.

Synthetic stones, created in the lab, may be produced by a huge variety of techniques usually grouped under the processes melt growth, solution growth or high-temperature/high-pressure growth.

The melt technique includes the Verneuil flame-fusion method for creating rubies, sapphire, spinel, etc. The skull melting method is used for gems with high melting point like cubic Zirconia. The solution technique includes flux methods for producing emerald, ruby sapphire, spinel, alexandrite and hydrothermal method for beryl gems and quartz. There are also other methods like solid-state or liquid-state reaction, phase transformations or depositions. These processes create crystals of rubies, sapphires, jade, lapis lazuli. However, irrespective of the method used, the crystal of the gem produced must be similar to the natural gem in its physical, chemical and optical properties. The mineral content, crystal structure, trace elements which account for the color, hardness and durability should all be similar to the natural twin. Only then can it be termed as synthetic, created, cultured, lab-grown or lab-created. As they are replicas of the natural gem, the origin of the synthetics must be disclosed before they are sold or purchased. Synthetic stones should not be misrepresented as the natural one and this makes it important that one shops from a genuine and established jeweler or jewelry house

Synthetic or lab-grown gems are as captivating and maybe more perfect than natural gems. So why does the world hanker for the natural stones? Gems found in Nature have that mystical element about them, they are miracles of Mother Earth and their very imperfections represent the whims of Creation and add to their esoteric beauty. On the other hand, synthetic stones have a predetermined quality, size, color and price. While this subtracts from the mystical charm, it makes it more affordable and suitable for designer jewelry. The rich vibrant colors of synthetic stones score above the natural stones which may often be treated to enhance color. Natural stones with vivid colors and larger sizes are usually exorbitantly priced and out of reach of the average person and this is where synthetic stones (that can also be cut to great perfection) step in and take over. It takes a very skilled gemologist to differentiate between naturals and synthetics. Transparency, fluorescence, color, variations in micro-structures, inclusions/veins/bubbles and color zoning are some of the properties that distinguish naturals from synthetics.

So while the tag CRTD (created) on the gemstone indicates that it is not rare nor natural, it is still a beautiful piece of art. As long as its price is in tune with its manufactured status, it may be a wonderful buy for exquisite jewelry.

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